Gill Linton, founder of Byronesque, is quickly asserting himself as a force in the new vintage movement with blockbuster reissue collaborations with Opening Ceremony and FarFetch, where he most recently brought Paris powerhouse Claude Montana back into the cultural conversation. I sat down with Gill to ask how he got started and where he thinks the market will head next.
There is no denying one of the hottest, growing sectors of retail is the resale market. Some call it pre-owned luxury, vintage, secondhand, consignment or resale, but no matter how you slice it, vintage has become big business. Yet, look beyond the leading voices and power sellers such as Vestiaire Collective, Depop, The RealReal and even eBay, and you’ll find a new wave of voices emerging to define the next phase of this movement and conversation.
As the anxieties and pressures from sustainability, over-accessibility and technology seem to converge and grow more perplexing by the day, nostalgia has become one of the most potent forces in driving a new era and micro-industry in the realm of retail and fashion. Fashion is once again balancing the act of looking back as a way to go forward, and business is booming.
Once seen as a marketing laggard in the luxury arms race, sluggish to innovation, the brand has perfected the art and craft of what it means to be a classic luxury brand by blending next generation marketing principles with timeless brand virtues.
What emerged from this September’s gauntlet of shows and spectacles, starting in New York and concluding in Paris, was less a seismic shift and rather a deepening of symptoms and notions suspected earlier in February during the Autumn/Winter collections. While each week had its defining moments of anticipation, revelation and condemnation (Nicki Minaj and Cardi B bust up at the Harper’s Bazaar party and Hedi Slimane’s Celine debut most notably), what seemed to resonate most when assessing the entire month as a collective whole was a deepening and emboldening of themes and symptoms which are plaguing the industry as a whole. Even taken in singularity, the lessons learned from each represent a piece of the complex puzzle currently shaping an industry caught somewhere in between complacency and chaos.
The best looks and street styles from Pitti Uomo 94, the biggest menswear fair in the world taking place in Firenze.
Following a rapid rise as an icon of both fashion and digital culture as Off White's creative director, Virgil Abloh's appointment as Creative Director of Louis Vuitton menswear presents a dichotomy in an industry still divided.
A photo diary of the fashion frenzy and fanfare from Pitti Uomo 93 in Florence, Italy